Peaches, Custard, and Crumble—This Midwestern Cake Has It All

In German, kuchen just means cake. In the Dakotas, it means something more specific—a coffee cake with layers of sweet yeasted dough, some kind of filling (usually fruit), and custard. Brought to the region by German-speaking homesteaders, it's a sturdy and adaptable treat.

"The fillings are whatever was available on the farm," says Rick Gion of Prairie Public Broadcasting in Fargo, North Dakota, who's eaten kuchen all over the state. "I've seen blueberry, chocolate chip, and cottage cheese versions. Even bacon and onion. Everyone makes it a little differently."

Why Dakota Kuchen Is Worth Making

It's not fussy: Most of the ingredients are pantry and refrigerator staples, and getting it right doesn't require any special skill in fluting, crimping, or frosting. Plus, it keeps well in the freezer, so you're always ready for guests, holidays, or any occasion that calls for something homemade. That's why many older recipes make four, six, or eight cakes, or more. (This one just makes two.)

What Makes a Great Dakota-Style Kuchen

After eating kuchen across the Dakotas and making dozens of variations at home, I've come up with a list of what the best examples have in common:

• The base layer is tender and relatively thin (a quarter to a half inch), but strong enough to support the filling without becoming soggy. I usually eat my kuchen with a fork and knife, but I should be able to eat it like pizza, as some do.
• The filling, whether it's fruit, cottage cheese, or something else, is in balance with the other layers. "This is not a fruit tart," Gion says.
• When the custard is set, it slices cleanly but still feels creamy and soft. It should be rich and sweet, but, like the kuchen as a whole, not too rich or too sweet.

An Enriched Dough, Made Easier

Unlike most American cakes, kuchen starts with a yeast-raised dough rather than a batter—a nod to its Old World roots. The baking tradition it's a part of, brought to the Dakotas by German-Russian immigrants, favors soft, enriched doughs that can stand up to juicy fruit and delicate custard without falling apart.

Inspired by a recipe from Elsie Huether of Dickinson, North Dakota, in the spiral-bound Northern Plains Ethnic Cookbook, my dough includes potato, which makes it extra soft and spongy by adding starch that traps moisture and limits gluten development. I originally used mashed potatoes, like Elsie, but I've switched to shelf-stable potato flakes for convenience.

The dough comes together quickly in a stand mixer. After the first rise, you divide it and refrigerate it for up to a day. That cold second rise develops flavor, strengthens the gluten for a more resilient base layer, and makes the sticky dough easier to handle. Plus, it means you can bake this kuchen whenever it suits you. Make the dough and custard in the evening, and you can bake it in the oven anytime the next day, straight from the fridge.

Fruit Options

For the filling, you can use almost any fresh fruit you like, sliced when necessary and arranged evenly across the top of the cake. (If you want to try cottage cheese, bacon, or onions, I hope you will, but that's beyond the bounds of this recipe.) If it's good in a pie, it's probably good on kuchen—though, as for pie, some fruits require prep work. 

In the summertime, I like to use fresh stone fruit, such as peaches, apricots, and plums, and I've written this recipe for those toppings. Out of season, you could keep the stone fruit theme going with prunes, a traditional filling that you can keep in the pantry. (I make a prune purée with cinnamon, vanilla, and lemon juice.) Or you could use frozen or canned peaches. If using frozen, thaw them in a colander before using them. In either case, blot away any excess liquid with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel before arranging them over the base.

The Foolproof Custard and Crunchy Topping

Finally, the custard: For a topping that's rich but not heavy, with a clean flavor and just enough body to hold its shape, I split the base between milk and cream. I flavor it with real vanilla, rather than extract, for a fuller, more nuanced vanilla flavor, which is my typical approach for custards, ice creams, and other desserts in which vanilla plays a starring role. I pre-cook the custard and stabilize it with a teaspoon of cornstarch for a practically foolproof result. A sandy flour-and-butter crumble on top adds a layer of cinnamon-sugar crunch.

When and How to Serve Dakota Kuchen

As for how and when to eat this kuchen, well, once again, your options are as wide-open as the Plains. "I've had it as dessert, as breakfast, and as an afternoon snack," Gion says. "I've had it cold, at room temperature, and warmed up, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. All are good."